This blog will loosely chronicle my experiences in Germany as a Congress-Bundestag Youth Exchange (CBYX) for Young Professionals Fellow. CBYX site: https://www.cbyx.info/
Every Wednesday a bar hosts 'Mundo Lingo.' Mundo Lingo is advertised for people between 18 and 30 to get together in order to make new friends and practice speaking languages. When you arrive, they give you stickers for the languages you know. You are supposed to place the stickers at the relative height of your competence. Some people had up to 5 stickers. 3 was average and 4 was not uncommon.
Tony, a CBYXer, is great at German and is able to put the German flag near the American flag. I had my Mexican flag and the German flag very low on my shirt.
People see the flags you have, and walk up and talk to you in one of your flag languages.
The conversations pretty much go:
"Oh, you know [ ] as well, are you from [ ]? Why did you have to learn [ ] ? Why are you in Germany [ ]? Yeah, German is really hard. I miss the food from [ ]. Have you noticed [ ] about germany/germans yet? Yeah this place is more crowded than a Katy Perry concert, lets go outside and buy a beer from the corner store."
There were over a hundred people at the event and hanging around outside. I thought it was an awesome idea and got to know some classmates and other CDC students better, as well as meet new people. I also found out that learning German has thoroughly confused my Spanish.
Slavi, do you have four places free in your car for Saturday? I want to go to amsterdam with four friends. On sunday we want to leave after 4pm. do you leave around this time? We are international German language students . many Thanks.
Two classmates, a friend, and I are going to Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and the North Sea this weekend. For a while I was trying to use a ride sharing program, which forced me to write the above message. Luckily, Manuel helped me edit it. It turns out Slavi isn't German either- his response to my inquiry made absolutely no sense. We are going in a rental car now.
German breakfast is different. I eat cereal every morning, but I couldn't help but to hear what everyone else has been eating with their host families. Everyday, CBYXrs across Cologne wake up and eat bread with toppings. The toppings are different types of cheese, deli meat, some vegetables, jam, and Leberwurst.
Most of the breakfast conversation in the first days revolved around Leberwurst. One of my friends is an avid fan and talked it up a bit. He says, "delicious, spreadable meat- so good!" Last week he woke up and there was no Leberwurst in his apartment. His reaction was caught on film:
It's about time I stop youtubing weverything I'm curious about.
Because of the salesmanship of this one Leberwurst fan, I looked past the ingredient list and spent 64 Euro cents to buy a "tube" of the German meat. Yes, "tube" as in "a tube of toothpaste" is how I've chosen to describe it.
Leberwurst (or at least the off-brand extremely cheap brand) is not my favorite thing to wake up to. Imagine putting bologna and salt in a blender and then pouring it on your toast. By the way, "leber" means liver. Liver sausage- I should of seen this one coming.
There is silver lining to this though- leberwurst is great on sandwiches. The pictures below show the creation of my new sandwich, named "the breath-mint":
Step 1: Put a little squirt of Leberwurst on the bread.
Step 2: Add all of the onions you can.
Step 3-End: Add Schwarzwälder Schinken (Black Forrest ham, kind of. More smell power and waxy like prosciutto), Gouda, tomato, hot sauce and ranch dressing.
My classmate asked me not to eat this in class again. He wasn't a fan of the onions and interesting smells. If only he knew how good it tasted!
I went shopping the other day for new soccer shoes- it went well. I got a pair for 35 Euro and they only turned 35% percent of my feet into blistered rawness.
But, that is neither here nor there.
I'd like to use this blogpost as an opportunity to leverage my wanderings and photojournalism for a good cause- exposing the "other side" of Carhartt, the American company we thought we knew.
This story, or should I say investigative piece, started the day I landed in Germany. Within 72 hrs of being in Germany, I noticed a lot of young people wearing Carhartt shirts, which took me by surprise. This American brand isn't pervasive in the states, and in my opinion, is associated with very specific target audiences- and not the ones I imagined existing in Europe. More on this later.
Makes me want to say " 'Merikah!" and listen to the National Anthem.
For those of you who don't know, Carhartt has branded itself as "the working man's brand of choice" in the States. They make high quality clothes for adults, including the Fire Resistant clothes worn by my fellow refinery workers everyday. This ad sums up their attitude and mission:
If you're like me, you probably didn't watch that ad. Here's my summary of the script:
"[Our Shirt] was not designed for 90 minute tennis, it was designed for 12hr work days"
"it was designed to build stadiums, not play in them"
"the guys who fix our roads shouldn't have to wear the same shirt you go to the lake in"
I like Carhartt. In fact, I went on a youtube binge and watched all of their ads. I'm on board with 'made in America' and their emphasis on function and quality.
Side note: My favorite ad was the one that integrated footage of two guys trying to rip a pair of pants in half using ATVs. Spoiler Alert: The pants won. Which was awesome, because if they lost, the taught rope could have slung their metal "test apparatus" at one of their heads. And that would be a terrible ad. Raw footage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qug4f_7rUQg
The investigative journalist that I am, I decided to look up "Europe Carhartt" on the Google. I needed to get to the bottom of this.
Meet the popular European Carhartt, Carhartt WIP:
Note: Text box added for emphasis
If you're wondering, WIP stands for "Work In Progress." Of course, not actual work, like construction of American roads and stadiums, but instead, they are referencing the hard work that is skateboarding and all forms of "gnar-chasing." (gnar is short for gnarly, which means, in proper context, mind-blowingly awesome)
They called home and told their Moms they were at "Work"
If I were to have to pinpoint what I imagined the exact opposite culture of construction, oilfield, and farm workers, or those who enjoy hunting, I would have to pick all things associated with skateboarding and skateboarders.
Which is why I thought it was funny to see this other side of Carhartt; it's a 180 from the US branding I used to know.
Truthfully, I did all of this research and story telling in order to have a reason to post my only two pictures from mysoccer shoe shopping trip shopping:
Not the Carhartt to wear on your first day on the job-site.
5-panel hats. Globally worn by 0 people who have gone hunting or operated construction equipment.
I stand corrected. I found this hunter after googling "Wearing 5 panel hat"
Part of our pre-departure training was a series of readings called "It's not bad, it's not good, it's just that _________________ is different." I'll submit Carhartt to the document (people need to know!!!).
^^ It's been a slow night guys. Really stretching the news here.
Within the German grocery store, America has the most marketing presence in the frozen food section. Lots of chicken products (American style popcorn chicken, fried chicken) and frozen foods (tailgate food, ice cream, pizza, etc.) seem very familiar- the rest of the store is uniquely German and it is quite disorienting.
I'll buy anything with "Tex", "Mex", or "Scharf" (it means spicy).
On Sunday I went to a ceramics fair for Cologne artists. There were busts, fountains, flatware, ceramic-flowers, wall pieces, and much more. In general, everyone's style was very modern. None of my pictures support that statement- you'll just have to believe me.
Cool alternative vase for small and short flower arrangements. I like this idea because sometimes table settings get in the when they're too tall.
And you thought I wouldn't be able to work in a photo of the Dom!
Frankfurt am Main is the financial capital of Germany; its nickname is Main-hattan. It is a pretty standard "international big city"
Walked by the Altstadt (old city)
Visited the Frankfurt Dom. I think they realized there was too much competition downstream in Cologne.
The church was much simpler and brighter than Cologne's. Very pretty.
Massive Organ ("the lungs" of the cathedral- get it?).
After our short 1hr run through the city we headed to the BBQ at the American consulate.
Subway art. Das Weisse Album.
At the Consulate they have an American quickie mart filled with hard-to-get products in Germany.
We met and had a BBQ with 15 or so PPP alumni. We played football, soccer, volleyball, tisch tennis, and eating a lot. It was cool hearing all of the absurdly small towns they were place in within American and what their impressions were. I made a couple friends and think we'll be crossing paths again while I'm in Germany!
We got to meet the American Consul General
The American Consul General and his wife stopped by our BBQ to meet CBYXrs and PPrs. It was pretty awesome that he made the time to come by and acknowledge the program. Additionally, it was very interesting and amusing to imagine what his life must be like as a civil servant. For example, he was naturally very political in all of his chosen conversation topics, which was somewhat out of place for the casual event. And, he had 5 of the most stereotypical body guards you could imagine follow him around and maintain his exit from the party. 4 were wearing suits and paced anxiously or stood with their arms crossed evaluating the situation. The 5th was dressed normal and looked like he was trying not to be a body guard. And his car was awesome and had 8" thick with body armor. His intern, from Michigan State, was there and had a lot of interesting stories about life at the Consulate.
Breakfast
This morning I made a huge breakfast. I finally ponied up the money and bought avocados.
PPP Alumni (Germans who went to USA) hosted a meet-and-greet reunion BBQ in Frankfurt. All of the CBYX participants were invited. 15 of us from Cologne went. There is a really cool train deal, called "Schoenes Wochenende" (beautiful weekend), that allows five friend unlimited train travel within a 24 hr period on regional trains. We took the train path along the Rhine to get to Frankfurt. Below are some of the sights.
My picture frame for 3 hrs
Hard to take photos with a phone on a moving train, but I tried my best.
Lots of wine along the Rhein
We passed 15-20 ruined and in-use castles along the way. They are all absolutely incredible. Americans are always 100% amazed- Germans think it is funny how captivated we are by the stone forts and towers.
The Rhine is only ever ~1000 feet wide. It moves fast. And the turns can be dangerous for the boats. I thought that this was the Lorelei rock, but it was the next one down the river- oops!
Lorelei is a famous rock on the Rhine. It is a particularly dangerous point for ships navigating the river and the inspiration for a number of legends. Story has it a beautiful maiden falls to her death from the giant rock and her spirit stays there distracting boats- causing their doom. Below is a poem that all of my CBYX friends for some reason knew:
Lorelei by Heinrich Heine
(from Poemsintranslation.blogspot)
I know not if there is a reason
Why I am so sad at heart.
A legend of bygone ages
Haunts me and will not depart.
The air is cool under nightfall.
The calm Rhine courses its way.
The peak of the mountain is sparkling
With evening's final ray.
The fairest of maidens is sitting
So marvelous up there,
Her golden jewels are shining,
She's combing her golden hair.
She combs with a comb also golden,
And sings a song as well
Whose melody binds a wondrous
And overpowering spell.
In his little boat, the boatman
Is seized with a savage woe,
He'd rather look up at the mountain
Than down at the rocks below.
I think that the waves will devour
The boatman and boat as one;
And this by her song's sheer power
Fair Lorelei has done.
The Original:
Ich weiß nicht, was soll es bedeuten,
Daß ich so traurig bin;
Ein Märchen aus alten Zeiten,
Das kommt mir nicht aus dem Sinn.
Die Luft ist kühl, und es dunkelt,
Und ruhig fließt der Rhein;
Der Gipfel des Berges funkelt
In Abendsonnenschein.
Die schönste Jungfrau sitzet
Dort oben wunderbar,
Ihr goldenes Geschmeide blitzet,
Sie kämmt ihr goldenes Haar.
Sie kämmt es mit goldenem Kamme
Und singt ein Lied dabei;
Das hat eine wundersame,
Gewaltige Melodei.
Den Schiffer im kleinen Schiffe
Ergreift es mit wildem Weh;
Er schaut nicht die Felsenriffe,
Er schaut nur hinauf in die Höh'.
Ich glaube, die Wellen verschlingen
Am Ende Schiffer und Kahn;
Und das hat mit ihrem Singen
Die Lorelei getan.
Here is a statue of Loreley that was put up. And, here is a barge carrying Sulfuric Acid capsized right next to it. The statue is very naked; this is the only family-friendly angle. The art may be part of the problem. (photo by Eric von Erichsen)
More Castles and River towns.
So many churches.
Part of my "Accidental Abstract" series.
None Shall Pass!!!! -Tiny-middle-of-river-fort
It was the best and most beautiful train ride I've ever had. I would definitely like to ride a bike for the length of any European river.
One of Sam's friends is riding a bike from Switzerland to the North Sea via a continuous bike path along the Rhein. On Friday she passed through Cologne; her and a friend (they met earlier that day on the bike path) crashed on a couch in my apartment for a night.
More or less the path.
Carol, Ellie, and Sam. Egg plant 4-cheese noodles, pork, and salad.
On Friday we visit some of the sights in Cologne. We made a stop by Globetrotter because it's just that absurd.
One of the many other churches in Cologne.
Stumbled upon oil and vinegar and mustard shop.
We found a really cool olive oil, vinegar, and mustard shop. It had tons of oil varieties. I almost bought the chili-flake infused olive oil.
Inside globetrotter jacket-testing-freezer. We turned on the tornado-strength fan and watched our temperatures plummet.
Ellie on the way out. So many bags attached to one bike.
It was nice meeting new people and cooking good food. The idea of biking and camping the length of the Rhine is very appealing to me. I would like to do something similar within the next year or at some point in the future.
Today after class I went on a tour of the Rhine with classmates and a CDC tutor. We rented bikes near the Dom and then rode South along the Rhine. The map below is an overview.
I think about 25km total. I will be riding a bike to Bonn one of these weekends- it is very close and the path is nice!
Half of the bike tour crew. My classmate Anton is to my left.
These three buildings are for some reason my favorites in Cologne. They look like re-purposed industrial buildings, but I think they are newly built. I'll look into it.
The bike pat along the Rhein was very smooth and flat. A "selfie" for some bike riding excitement.
The path becomes heavily vegetated.
Along the bike-path families, friends, and couples laid about taking advantage of the green-space and view of the water. Our bike gang was a bit unsightly and loud, but probably large enough to be amusing for locals at the very least.
Horses and pastures just South of the city.
At some point on our ride two of the CDC students collided, resulting in a knee on pavement massacre. One of the girls got it pretty bad and was bleeding. We only found this out after waiting along the path for 30 minutes wondering where the stragglers were. I took the opportunity to work on my horse (pferd) calls. They need work.
Ferry to other side
Once we were together we used a ferry to cross the river. The ferry exists solely to transport bike riders and runners from one side of the river to the other. It was a short ride, and it ended at a very nice "German village."
"German Village." In reality, a touristy facade for leisurely afternoon snacks.
Garden for Beer
We stopped and grabbed a beer in the little riverside restaurant. I got to meet some of the other CDC students from the more advanced classes. They were all DAAD participants, which is a German scholarship for undergraduates and postgraduates. This is the same program the students in my class are a part of. DAAD takes people from every country and pays for 1 year of undergrad, or for your postgraduate education. It is an incredible honor to be DAAD from what I've heard.
During our group drink, I eventually met a DAAD participant Nathan from Baton Rouge. He is a junior from LSU- we had a good time talking about football. He will be in Bonn studying and I will make sure he meets my childhood friend David, who is moving from ABQ to Bonn for a semester.